Wednesday, April 30, 2025

Hidden in Plain Sight: The Sugarello Seafood Experience in Florence

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“We are passionate fish eaters,” sings the greatest Italian songwriter Paolo Conte in his exquisite piece “Spassiunatamente.” If you share this fervent passion, settle in comfortably and continue reading.

There exists a stubborn belief that quality fish cuisine is hard to come by away from coastal areas. While there’s a kernel of truth in every stereotype, exceptions abound. Up until a decade ago, Florence presented a challenge for those seeking to dine on fish prepared with finesse, often forced into an uneasy meld with Tuscan culinary traditions, usually resulting in an unremarkable hybrid. Thankfully, the culinary landscape has since transformed, making it easier to find establishments that treat fish with the reverence and creativity it deserves. Among these, Sugarello emerges – a fish shop and kitchen nestled on the ground floor of the Mercato Centrale in Florence, located precisely within the bustling fish market sector.

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Sugarello’s journey began three years ago, amid the global pandemic, spearheaded by chef Luca Corretti (boasting a background in Slow Food and French cuisine) and Raffaello Baldini (with deep roots in hotel hospitality). Taking over a space within the Mercato Centrale, they launched a concept offering quick, quality dishes from their counter. Despite the no-frills setting with just stools and paper plates, the emphasis on premium ingredients and meticulous preparation stood out. The menu highlights Tuscan-sourced blue fish like mackerel, grey mullet, and sardine, alongside essentials such as squid, shrimp, and mussels—the staples of frying, enriched with fresh oysters. Echoing Hemingway’s ethos, these simple pleasures encapsulate the essence of happiness:

As I ate the oysters with their strong taste of the sea and their faint metallic taste that the cold white wine washed away, leaving only the sea taste and the succulent texture, and as I drank their cold liquid from each shell and washed it down with the crisp taste of the wine, I lost the empty feeling and began to be happy and to make plans.

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Initiating quietly during the pandemic and opting for a culinary style that leans more towards street food than upscale dining allowed Sugarello to cultivate a mainly local clientele. This includes lunchtime workers and dedicated fish lovers, occasionally joined by the adventurous foreigner straying from the Mercato Centrale’s main paths.

The menu boasts staple dishes such as fried assortments, grilled items, and skewers suitable for takeaway. It’s further diversified with daily specials based on the morning’s catch and the chef’s innovation, typically featuring at least two starters, fresh pasta or couscous, and a generous serving of vegetables. This is complemented by a thoughtfully curated wine list, featuring selections like Campanian Falanghina and Vermentino, perfectly matching the caliber of the dishes.

Sugarello’s commitment to sourcing ingredients directly from the Mercato Centrale not only fosters a beneficial systemic impact but also champions the concept of zero-kilometer sourcing, ensuring freshness and supporting the local ecosystem.

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Emiliano Wass
Emiliano Wass
Emiliano, editor-in-chief of The Tasty Guide, blends anthropological insight with publishing and journalism experience. He would happily exchange five of his fingers for five tacos al pastor.

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